I was eager to get beyond the machining phase and get back to some real hand tool action. With all three sets of legs removed from their templates I needed to take care of any machine marks, remove any nubs left at the end of the legs from the templates, and taper the legs to their final profile.
I started by inserting the legs in their dovetails and marking where each leg contacted the supporting ridge on the pedestal.
With the use of a spokeshave (steady on, there's lots of short grain around these parts) and an inflatable doohickey that goes on my lathe and holds sanding sleeves, I brought the profile down to the correct arc. I also made sure that the curve was still "fair" up to the top profile. In addition, I made sure that the length of the shoulder along the dovetails was equal, as this (and the overall length of the legs) would determine whether the table would be level. I held off on radiusing (if that's a word) the topline as still thinking about the final look.
I wanted the leg width to taper from 3/4" at the top, to 1/2" at the bottom. By scribing a line 1/8" at the end of each leg, I had a reference point for hand planing.
I also made a handy jig for holding these odd-shaped pieces in place for planing. I just drew an outline, predrilled the holes, applied some hot glue, lined it with scrap leather, and assembled.
I had been careful to make sure that the grain ran from the dovetail-to-foot direction to accommodate the planing. I started with my old Stanley #3 (set for a medium cut) and did my normal routine for tapering. Starting about 1 inch from the end I take three passes, then three passes two inches from the end (all the way to the end), then three inches from the end, etc. I do this all the way until I'm planing the entire piece and repeat until I have some thing that looks like the right angle and I've reached my scribe marks. I then switch to my Stanley 5 1/2 for a couple of swipes to make it an even slope.
Setting this aside I moved on to some drawer construction. The Single Drawer Sewing Stand has a drawer that is housed below the top. Taunton's
In the Shaker Style has a good diagram.
Right, just a quick through dovetail job to make the U-shaped support that will hold the runners and call it a day. I cut the parts, trued them on shooting board and marked everything for dovetailing. After taking the summer off, I really felt rusty as I pushed on with the tails and pins. A few minutes turned into an hour and still I worked -- marking and cutting. OK, almost done let's just assemble, and . . .
Arrgh. I failed to notice that I'd marked out the second tail piece upside down. Instead of a U-shaped support, I had a Z-shape hunk of firewood!
But, like the proverbial fox who couldn't reach the grapes, I concluded that the dovetails were not great anyway. I think I'll spend a few hours bringing my hand-dovetailing skills back to their former mediocre state.
Next, I do a bit of work on the Round Stand and see if I can get my spatial relationship issues worked out on that support.
Yea, spatial relationship stuff is my downfall. That is why most of my projects are case pieces. I also don't do well with curves like cabriole legs, which I hope to change in time.
ReplyDeleteI can be very impatient -- one of my (many) shortcomings is an almost pathological failure to ensure that stock is absolutely flat and square. So many issues I deal with at step 237 could have been avoided if I'd done step 2 correctly -- But step 2 is so boring!
ReplyDeletethanks for your article, your article very nice
ReplyDelete